I originally chose the Battalion Grey Cordura for this watch, but its very short lugs simply couldn’t accommodate the thickness of the strap. I hadn’t really considered the relationship between lug length and strap thickness when I ordered it, and when it didn’t fit I honestly wasn’t sure what to do next. That turned out to be a very good thing, because it led me to contact Veblenist for advice. Howard suggested the Onyx Ridged Suede modified with curved ends and extra-thin construction around the spring bars, and guided me toward a solution I would not have arrived at on my own. The watch is designed by Drenttel Doyle Partners, created in New York in the 1990s. I have a particular affection for it because I was living and working there then. The dial turns the numbered IRT subway-route symbols into hour markers, and I’ve always loved the almost Bauhaus-adjacent clarity of the idea. The final strap suits it beautifully. The black suede merges with the black case, while the ridged surface adds subtle graphic texture without competing with the dial. The custom construction fits perfectly, and the whole watch now feels completely resolved. I couldn’t be happier with how this came together.




